Some people are very interested in the precise method of manufacture used. And it’s a good thing to be interested in how such a valuable garment is constructed so that you can best enjoy it now and into the future. Cheaper suits tend to come “fused” – so that the interlining is ‘glued’. This tends to produce rippling across the chest and can lead to a suit having a much shorter useful lifespan.

We use the modern way of making suits, referred to as “half hand canvassing”. This is where the chest area is canvassed – thus creating a floating piece – while the bottom area is fused. We use very soft Italian canvas and French interlining for the fusion.

Some would say that means that we have a ‘floating canvas’ but the correct description is “half hand canvassing”.

Does Tom Cruise wearing a double breasted jacket mean that they are fashionable again?

I might not go that far, but with so many designers offering a double breasted suit in their ranges this year, it seems that the classic double breasted suit might just be back. At least for a year or two. Or perhaps even longer for those of us living a little further from the fashion capitals of the world.

With a six-button double breasted suit, I would still suggest using the middle button for the closure, though as Tom shows here, you might even get away with a four-button jacket.

I do like his use of a pocket square. Simple. Elegant.

Remember that your suit jacket should be long enough to cover your arms but short enough to leave some of your cuff showing.

That way, you get the chance to show your cuff links and the style of your choice of cuffs. You can make it look even better with the use of working buttons so that you can leave one or two buttons deliberately undone.

So check your sleeves. Make sure that when you are standing up, you can still see some of your cuff – about 1cm is perfect.

Unless you want to look like you borrowed your jacket of course.

Check your buttonaire. Jackets have been coming with a button hole stitched into one or other lapel since we were threading a rope through them as protection against European rains.

But mostly these days we just use them for a flower. Well, in theory we do. But in reality: Rarely. If ever. When was the last time you wore a flower on your suit jacket?

“But,” you ask, “how do you keep the flower in place anyway?” And it was a problem so I’m glad you asked…

Some will debate whether they should be cut through at all or just left sitting there as a ‘design feature’ or something. But I like to use mine. Just like I like to have working cuff buttons. And to make it even more usable, I realized that I could put a little stitch of fabric just below the hole. That way, the flower will be held in place by its own weight!

You might be able to see the orange thread in the image above.

Now this little loop of fabric has to be stitched by hand – but it is the kind of detail that could really make a difference.

So it’s springtime and it’s so easy to do – I am updating all my suits now.

A good suit can make you go from mouse to man in a matter of moments.

Before you purchase your next suit, remember to ask yourself, “What is this suit saying about me?”

That’s why it’s so important to get a suit that fits.

Spend the money on a great suit and you will have it for many years.

I don’t like the current trend towards thinner lapels.

We can make them. They’re cheaper to produce… marginally as they just require a little less fabric. But the excuse for them given by some (that they’re to match the more fitted jacket styles) just doesn’t hold up.

They are a great marketing ploy by some high-end fashion labels to create a clear point of fashion differentiation, so that people can be identified as wearing a suit from “this year” and devaluing suits from “last season”. If you like a thinner lapel, go for it of course. Just include it in the special requests section.

I like working cuff buttons. All of my suits have this. I like the openness of the cuff that this offers.

I love ticket pockets. Catching the subway with a ticket pocket is so much more convenient for me.

Twin vents on a jacket tend to sit better for most of us. Though vent-free jackets also look great, I like the added range of movement that the double vents offers. Beware that if you’re wearing a suit that you didn’t buy from us, please make sure that you cut through the fabric holding the corners of the vents together!

The last suit that I had made was a one-button, peaked lapel with angled pockets. To me, this is about as cutting edge as I could find – and I love the effect… Especially as I have it made from a General Manager Collection, 14-2 black self herringbones, a gorgeous fabric!

We can make whatever fashions you can imagine, though I must encourage you: Please make sure that you’re doing it because you think it looks better, and not just because you want a suit that looks more expensive!

We can make your suits with as many buttons as you would like. At the moment, four buttons seems to be the way to go around the world, and I would particularly encourage you to consider taking our working button option – I love it!

I have never been one for fanciness for its own sake, but rather for the sake of enhancing functionality or aesthetic quality. Having working buttons will not only make your suit something special and allow you to more easily adjust your cuffs – and give you something that you can talk about with others – but will also allow you to embody the unity of form and function.

Working sleeve buttons make you stand out.

In our quest to dress right, I’ve found that TV presenters are often a good guide for what’s fashionable though still reasonably conservative. Last night, I saw Bruce Page presenting the Brisbane television news wearing a great stylish suit, and was impressed that it was a variably pinstriped, black, single-breasted suit with peaked lapels and angled pockets.

This is one of the most elegant styles around, and while it has been increasingly popular in Britain and Europe for some time, we are only now seeing it penetrate the mainstream Australian market.

It is challenging to find the right balance for the peak: Too small and it’s skimpy, though too large and it’s clumsy. Having the peak extend about 1cm beyond the collar seems about right at the moment – as opposed to the much larger peaks you might see in double breasted jackets.

We have them ready for you to order now – in your size, and in just the right fabric for you.

I’m also wondering when we might see pin collars making more of an appearance… I think they’re on their way, but we’ll just have to see.

In his announcement today, you may have noticed Jacques Chirac wearing one of the newest variations for suits: The angled notch. This is a very fashionable variation, at the leading edge through most of the world, though is gradually being more broadly adopted. Peaked lapels on single breasted jackets – with the peaks slightly smaller than what you would you see on a double breasted jacket – are another fashionable look that we’ll expect to see more of in the coming months.

Of course, Chirac, has been wearing such fashionable items for some time – this photo was taken in mid-2006!

Long sidelined as the least lovable part of a three-piece suit, the vest is emerging as a solo star. Be thankful that style arbiters have put their stamp of approval on something truly wearable (unlike, say, formal shorts) and memorise the following guidelines:

• Modesty: It’s a vest, not a tank top. You can layer it over a short sleeved tee or a printed shirt (if your aim is to look casual) or a starched button-down shirt and a tie (if your goal is polish).
• Fit: Baggy, unbuttoned vests were abolished in the late eighties. Rather than channel Corey Haim, make sure yours is snug but doesn’t fit so tight that you can’t button it.
• Subtlety: The vest makes a statement on its own – it doesn’t need loud prints. Stick with something low-key like a gray, black or dark plaid wool.

So with summer here in Australia, vests can add style without necessitating a full jacket; for those facing the cool winter, the vest can give warmth as well. Either way, you’re on a winner.