The Shirts and Suits Style Guide
Basic principles of style
The well dressed gentleman or lady needs to remember but a few basic rules when choosing the right garments to add to their wardrobe, and what to wear on a given day. Firstly, wear clothes that reflect both how you are feeling, and what you want to communicate. That said, here are some ideas to consider.
You know many other benefits to wearing customized business shirts and suits - that's probably why you are here. Some of the popular reasons include:
- Give shape, form, and customizations that most flatter your physique and facial features,
- Create an image to reflect the mood/atmosphere of any occasion,
- Develop versatility to integrate with the rest of your wardrobe,
- Personalize the finer details to design your own signature finishes.
In all, your clothing magnifies your personality, so that people listen even before you open your mouth, while the freedom, ease and comfort facilitate your self expression at the highest level.
Tuesday, October 17th, 2006
Seduction is a powerful word. For some people, it is dangerous and ugly, calling to mind deception and betrayal. Yet for others, it is just a daily reality. At YSL, one of France’s best known style houses, their attitude seems to be that seduction is something that we all do – deliberately or inadvertently.
We seduce men, women, our boss, and the community… by the way that we dress… everyday.
The question is whether we take control and responsibility for how we communicate to those around us.
Thinking about it, perhaps the challenge is to deliberately and conscientiously communicate through our clothes and actions our inner state of mind. In that sense, are we communicating that we are a leader or a follower? Are we setting the trends or are we following the fads? Are we dressing to be comfortable while taking advantage of how clothing can help project the confidence, style and whatever else we might desire?
Set your own path… login now
Posted in style | No Comments »
Tuesday, October 17th, 2006
My friend told me about how when her brother, Michael, was in Sydney recently, one of the boys at the party started big noting himself about how wonderful his suit was, bragging that it was a Zegna or something and worth thousands of dollars. Michael sat quietly, listening to this creep big-note himself in front of the girls for some time before the guy made the mistake of asking what brand of suit Michael wore. Michael responded, “My suit doesn’t have a brand.” At this, with just enough of a pause, the other guy thought that he had won, until Michael added, “I have my own tailor.”
The other guy was flawed – as were his chances with the girls that he had been showing off to! It was such a beautiful reminder that while people ‘trying’ to get somewhere might live through their brands, the ultimate remains having your clothes personally made for you… Tell us your stories – the best story for the next month will receive a free tie!
Posted in style | No Comments »
Tuesday, October 17th, 2006
Although there remain many men who insist on wearing less than pure silk around their neck, most of us realise that men of distinction wear silk ties. However, there remains a rare piece of handwork that many of us still are yet to fully appreciate: The seven-fold tie.
Even pure silk ties include a lining of range of materials, and shows the ‘lining’ on the back of the tie. The seven-fold tie is the product of precision, dedication and outstanding design, and yet was almost lost to the world, and has no lining whatsoever: It is pure silk.
To create these most elegant cravats, one must fold not less than two and a half yards of fine fabric, a total of seven times. These ties virtually knot themselves, yet allow the tie to give a magnificent dimple without binding, leaving a luxurious flow of fabric from the neck, draping graciously across the torso, without fear of the interference by the lining.
Apparently, this tie evolved in the early twentieth century, yet disappeared with the onset of the Great Depression and the shortage of silk resulting from unrest in China. Despite a recovery of the fortunes of the society, the rise in popularity of this luxury had faltered. It was only in the 1980s that Robert Talbott rediscovered the seven-fold with the help of a retired Yugoslav, Lydia Grayson, and only after years of experimentation that the seven-fold was released in 1985. That company continues to produce small runs of the ties.
The seven-fold it expensive and rare, in part through the intensive labor costs; in part through the expensive materials used in its production. However, it remains a work to be admired and valued.
Posted in style | No Comments »
Wednesday, July 12th, 2006
Fast shirts and bevelled French cuffs Finally our ‘Fast’ range is back online again. Starting with ‘Fast Shirts’, you will see a range of our most popular and personal favourite styles easily accessed from the fabric selection page of our ordering system. This lets you get a great style of shirt even faster than before.
Today we added ‘Palazzi or bevelled French cuffs’ to our extensive range of shirt cuff options. These are French cuffs with the last centimetre showing of the corner cut off, making it a very visible style feature. Of course, you could always have asked us to make them, but now they are outlined as a specific option.
Personally, I would expect these to be ahead of the most stylish for about the next year, and at their peak of popularity for the following two years… plenty of time to get great value from your next bevelled French cuff shirt – create your’s today!
One of the great things about using us as your tailor is that we can create anything you can imagine…
Posted in style, updates | No Comments »
Saturday, July 1st, 2006
A dress shirts can make or break a fine suit.
- Pointed collars tend to be more formal. Button-down or rounded collars typically look better with textured jackets.
- A double breasted suit is well complimented by a spread collar.
- Tab-behind collars are sometimes called the “Ivy League” look, from their association with such colleges in the United States. It is a distinctive look, and one that I very much enjoy. Tab-behind collars remain unusual in Australia and convey a strongly distinctive style.
- Remember to choose the right knot to go with your shirt…
- We love French cuffs. They are more formal, demand the use of cufflinks (or a silk knot) and require a little more effort to iron. But they really look good!
Tags: shirts, style Posted in shirts, style | No Comments »
Saturday, July 1st, 2006
Men, the well dressed gentleman needs to remember but a few basic rules when choosing the right garments to add to his wardrobe, and what to wear on a given day. Firstly, though, he should remember to wear clothes that reflect both how he is feeling, and what he wants to communicate. Before the more detailed comments, some basic stuff:
- Silhouette
Choose a silhouette that matches your frame. If you are well-built, you can wear just about anything; the double breasted suit that buttons at the second button is very popular in politics today, though the three-button single breasted suit seems to be the most common in general businesswear. Look around and notice what you see most, and, more importantly, what you like.
If you are heavier, accentuate vertical lines, if you are tall, accentuate horizontal lines. If you are shorter, be careful to keep the jacket short, lest your body seem cut in half, and look for a higher-buttoning jacket.
- Colour
All of the colours that we offer are suitable for suit wear. That said, the darker colours (especially the black and charcoal, navy and greys) tend to be most suitable for wearing in business, politics or in the law. Striped and checked suits are very popular and can be very stylish, though remember that a classic suit will tend to be more wearable for longer.
- Vents
Typically, one vent is an American style, two vents is British, while no vents is more commonly thought of as European. If you have a larger rear, vents will tend to reduce its impact. If wearing a double-breasted suit, a single vent is inappropriate.
- Cuffs
Tend to make the pants hang better through their added weight, though also tend to shorten the appearance of the leg. Men with longer legs should consider using cuffs, while stouter men would typically elect an uncuffed trouser. With pleatless pants, typically cuffs are omitted.
Make sure that you show some cuff. While short sleeves might be cooler, the well-dressed suit wearer ensures that about 1cm shows beneath the cuff…
- The length
Trousers should break or fold over the front of the shoe, though this is not mandatory.
Posted in style, suits | No Comments »
Wednesday, June 21st, 2006
Last night I was asked about silk cufflinks by the CEO of a Gold Coast law firm. We don’t yet stock them, though they are one of the few innovations in the past few years. They are a great idea that works really well as a gift – partly because they can cost as little as $10 or so, compared with $500 for solid gold cufflinks. While we are looking to source them ourselves, from www.linksandties.co.uk, £2.50 will get you some basic single colour ones while £4.50 will get you a set of multi-coloured logs. According to some, they are just as formal as solid cufflinks provided that they are colour coordinated; simple black or white silk knots being the most formal according to to another source.
What do you think? To me, they’re lovely though don’t quite compare to double-sided cufflinks…
Posted in style | No Comments »
Sunday, June 11th, 2006
There is nothing wrong with having your tailored pants sized so that you don’t need to wear a belt; nor is there anything wrong with wearing suspenders with the buttons that are a no-charge option on all our suits and trousers. However, you really should wear a belt if you still have belt loops… it looks completely unfinished.
Posted in style | No Comments »
Saturday, June 10th, 2006
Firstly, let me commend you for even asking this question. It is sad to say, but most men today do not even give consideration to the purpose for which their outer breast pocket was created – many even leaving the stitching in place for their off-the-rack jackets.
But it is a real style question… With a white shirt, it is easy: white in either silk that is folded or scrunched or folded linen. With other shirt colours, you are given the challenge to choose a colour that compliments the tie and the shirt. Don’t match the tie and the pocket square – it’s just tacky. Some would say that you should use real handkerchiefs – so that when the damsel in distress cries out for your aid, you can give her a real handkerchief to wipe her eyes.
I don’t know whether I would want to do that, but it does make a great story. Experiment – overall, you get a lot of latitude for even trying!
Posted in style | No Comments »
Wednesday, August 10th, 2005
After spending a few days in Hong Kong, including their famous Fashion Week, before spending a further week exploring London, I am more proud than ever with what we are able to deliver. And while my time in Saville Row and Jermyn Street, the home of quality British bespoke tailoring was valuable and educational (and helps ensure that we can give you the absolute latest in European fashions), I also know that our quality is second to none.
Don’t get me wrong – with the hallowed halls of Turnbull & Asser (tailors for royalty, powerbrokers, and the otherwise rich and or famous), Hilditch & Key, Charles Tyrwhitt, Thomas Pink and countless others literally all around, it was easy to be intimidated and awed by their impressive doors, sturdy wooden coathangers and well trained staff.
Yet, with just a little exploration and discussion with the staff, it was clear that while these were places of excellence and quality, they are just stores. Their products are of a very high quality, yet they are still made in much the same way with very similar materials to what we are able to deliver at a tiny fraction of the price.
Where our friends on Savill e Row are selling their shirts off the rack for £75 (about $185) on special, our bespoke Egyptian Cotton shirts are selling for less than this every day. For example H&K make a big deal about how they can embroider your initials on your shirt – something that I take for granted in all of my shirts today.
They are excellent garments – so, if you’re a diplomat or Head of State, feel free to spend a fortune on a great shirt from Saville Row, though if you just want to look like and feel like a million dollars, and to get people asking you “Where did you get that shirt?”, you can dress smarter when you buy from ShirtsandSuits.com
I enjoyed the trip enormously! Start to order your shirt or suit now… before we raise the prices to better match our quality!
Tags: Charles Tyrwhitt, Hilditch & Key, Hong Kong, Jermyn Street, Saville Row, Scabal, Thomas Pink, Turnbull & Asser Posted in news, shirts, style, suits | No Comments »
|